Peak Climbing

PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL:

The vast numbers of snowcapped peaks offer the best choices for Himalaya expedition and climbing in Nepal. Peaks range from excellent introductions to Himalayan mountaineering to some extremely challenging climbs. These peaks are not higher than 6,500 m and situated close to some popular and accessible trekking routes. Some amazing climbs of several days can easily be incorporated into any of the wonderful treks in these areas and so the name Trekking Peaks came about.

The category was created by the Nepal Mountaineering association as an intermediate stage between hiking and all-out mountaineering. They are often close to major peaks, with astounding views from their summits. Climbing them gives you the exhilaration of pitting yourself against Himalayan conditions and altitudes, so don’t underestimate the challenge. It is essential to note that these are still considerable mountains, taller than almost anything in North America or Europe. Don’t be fooled by the name ‘trekking peak’ – most require a little scrambling over snow and ice so make sure you are familiar with the use of crampons and ice axes.

Climbing peaks in Nepal is governed by rules and regulation. The Nepal Mountaineering Association has produced a small booklet containing the regulations governing the ascent of trekking peaks. There are certain requirements governing trekking peaks, such as the need for a registered sirdar and for a recognized agency to get your peak permit.

CLIMBING STYLES:

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. All peak climbing in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal requires the use of rope, axe and crampons; ice screws, snow stakes (pickets) and often a small selection of nuts and pegs (pitons) may be useful. Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

CLIMATE:

Well climbing in Nepal can be done almost all the year round between October and May but the best time will be from October to November, the high season for climbing and trekking, the conditions are usually ideal with clear skies and stable weather, although you might experience the unconsolidated remains of heavy snowfall left over from the monsoon.

CLIMBING GRADE:

This is intended to give an indication of the overall difficulty of a climb – and we have considered a combination of factors such as technical difficulty, the length or duration of the climb, altitude – since this has a significant influence on the grade of the climb, and objective dangers such as the route’s exposure. The difficulty of climbing any Himalayan peak can vary from year to year according to the prevailing conditions, thus the given grades for our climbing trips are only intended as a rough guide.

F: Easy scree or gentle snow or short slopes up to 30 d

PD: Scrambling ground, slopes maybe 40 d

AD: Some pitched climbing on rock, snow/ice 45-50 d

D: Sustained pitched climbing on rock, ice up to 50-60 d

TD: Serious technical climbing, vertical ice

ED1: Expect sustained vertical or overhanging sections

ED2: The ED series is open ended, and gets harder with each generation

CLIMBING EQUIPMENTS:

It is important to have proper climbing equipment for climbing trip in Nepal. There are plenty of shops in Kathmandu where you can purchase good quality climbing gears. In case if you are interested in just hiring the option is always there.

Some of the technical gear you will be requiring is Plastic Boots, Crampoons, Harness, Helmet, Ice Axe, Ascenders, Descenders, Gloves, Gaiters, ropes, snow bar, ice screws

DEALING WITH EMERGENCY:

Climbers should be aware that there is very little in the way of rescue organization for handling trekker’s/climbing emergencies in Nepal. Though our guides are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that occurs during a trek but in case of serious problem one has to be helicopter out to the nearest place where there are adequate medical facilities. One needs to have a proper Insurance coverage i.e. helicopter rescue, medical and accidental policy as the cost of rescuing can go very high. If the landing site is far away, then we will have to use either porters or yak/mule to transport it to a place where you could be rescued. You must be aware that you are traveling in a very remote part of the world where there are difficulties of communication and getting an instant medical attention.

ALTITUDE RELATED PROBLEM:

Trekking/Climbing in the Himalayas can often affect a trekker/climber with altitude related discomfort either physically or mentally if ascending beyond the safer limits of 3000 m above sea level. Complaints of discomfort could either be mild or acute and they vary from person to person. Decreasing supply of oxygen in the atmosphere as one ascent higher, followed by lesser intake of oxygen by one’s body results in such discomfort.

Far Out including its staff are absolutely aware of this problem and hence for us it’s a big deal to allow ample time in between trek days to let your body acclimatize well. If affected, a person may show any/some of the following symptoms and complaints of such symptoms are collectively known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).

Headache that responds to pain killers but then returns
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Shortness of Breath
Cough
Palpitation
Dizziness/light-headedness
Unusual Tiredness/Weariness
Swelling of the limbs & face
Disturbed Sleep
Poor Coordination
Slurring of Speech

If such discomforts worsen a person could often become irrational and difficult to reason with making her/his ability to make sensible decisions increasingly impaired – one compelling reason for never trekking alone at higher altitudes. Therefore, we urge you to communicate with our guide/your group leader at all times should you experience any of these symptoms so that these can be effectively monitored.

INSURANCE:

We strongly recommend that you insured yourself before taking a trekking trip to Nepal. Your insurance policy should cover travel insurance, medical, accidental and helicopter rescue in case of emergency.

PEAK PERMIT FEE:

There are 27 climbing peaks regulated by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). A total of 33 Peak Permits were managed by NMA until the new regulation came into effect. Hence the NMA regulated peaks are termed as ‘Trekking Peaks’.

GROUP “A” and “B“:

(Mar/Apr/May)= US$ 250 net per person

(Sept/Oct/Nov)= US$ 125 net per person

(Dec/Jan/Feb/Jun/Jul/Aug)= US$ 70 net per person

Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) and Chulu East:

(Mar/Apr/May)= US$ 400 net per person

(Sept/Oct/Nov)= US$ 200 net per person

(Dec/Jan/Feb/Jun/Jul/Aug)= US$ 100 net per person

GARBAGE DEPOSIT:

The amount of US $ 500.- per peak should be deposited to NMA as garbage deposit fee to obtain the climbing permit for all 33 NMA Peaks. The refund shall be made as per the provisions made by NMA.